DCP700 / J75 Family, V80 style - Decurler Transport Repair Instructions

Rebuilding the Decurler Transports…
Xerox^® DCP 700, J75, & V80 families… – Part 1

Xerox^® Digital Color Press^® DCP-700/700i/770, Color Press C75/J75  & also Versant^® V80, V180, V2100, V3100

It’s finally becoming possible to rebuild or repair the Decurler Transport Assemblies.  Foam Decurler Rollers are spared in the J75 parts book, where they were missing from the DCP700 list.  We’ll check-out a good way to protect the gears on the front end of the unit.  These four little white gears have become famous for getting all chewed up, for reasons we’ll discuss.  Then we’ll also look at taking one of these units apart far enough to replace these four gears.

There are 3 versions of the Decurler Transport Assemblies.  Each version has its own OEM part numbers.  They are very similar, although there are some differences between them too.  The large Foam Rollers are the same for all three versions.

• DCP700/700i/770 version (059K62633)  OEM Refurbished =  641S00720
• J75 / C75 version (059k79264)  OEM Refurbished = 641S01011
• V80/V180/V2100 version (059K81491)  OEM Refurbished = 641S01072 

In many cases the limiting factor for these units turns out to be four little white gears at the front end.  There are two Idler Gears (one with 11 teeth, and one with 13 teeth), and there are two Drive Gears which fit onto ‘D’ shafts (one fits on the Upper Drive Roll and one fits the Lower Drive Roll).  These little white gears are in harms way of toner and developer falling-down from the Developer Unit above.  The grit gets into the teeth of the gears and wears them down rather quickly.  One look at the ramp-like black front-end cover makes it clear why so much grit lands on the gears.  A mylar sheet installed on this cover will serve as a protective cover for these gears. (see Photos #1 and 2)

Now let’s open one of these up and see how to get to the 4 important gears.

TOOLS REQUIRED:

• #1 Philips Head Screwdriver
  or 5.5mm hex driver
• Small Flathead Screwdriver

PARTS WHICH YOU MAY NEED:

• Decurler Transport Gear Kit (4 gears)
  (DC700DTGK or V80DTGK)
• Decurler Foam Roll
  (DC700DTFR or V80DTFR: 059K56451)

PROCEDURE - Part 1:

1.  Lay the unit on its right side and remove the Hinge-Limit Bracket (1 screw) (see Photo #4). While holding both upper and lower halves steady, carefully lift the green latch to release the two halves and open the unit up all the way. 
   

   
CAUTION: The hinge’s spring is strong… Take care not to let go of either half till the unit is fully open. (see Photo #5)
   
2.  Remove the 2 Idler Gears (11 Toothed and 13 Toothed) from their shafts on the inside of the front-end frame (one e-clip each) (see Photo #3)
IMPORTANT: Take care not to lose the tiny white plastic spacer ring which shares the same shaft as the 11 toothed Idler Gear
(refer back to Photo #3)
   
    
3.  Remove the Upper Drive-Roll Drive Gear (1 e-clip) (see Photo #6)
    
   
     
4.  Next, we’ll be gunning for the Lower Drive-Roll Gear. Start by removing the Lower Drive-Roll Drive Coupling from the rear end of the unit (1 e-clip) and the inner e-clip and bearing. (see Photo #7)
   

   
5.  Take off the black plastic cover from the lower left corner of the front end (1 screw) (see Photo #8)
       
6.  From the front end of the lower half, take off the Motor Mounting Bracket (3 screws & 2 wiring harness clips to release). (See Photo #9)
    

    
7.  Now remove the e-clip and bearing from the front end of the Lower Drive Roller. (see Photo #10)
    

      
8.  Next shift the Lower Drive Roller toward the rear of the unit until you can slide the Gear off the front end of the roller. That’s the 4^th of the group of little white gears which usually fail.

9.  Remove the Upper Decurler Drive Roll. At the rear end, remove 1 e-clip and the bearing.  At the front end, its best to leave the black plastic retainer in-place, as it is easily broken if you try to remove it (see Photo #11).  Pop the front e-clip and bearing off and the Upper Decurler Drive Roll comes right out.  Inspect the Drive Roll’s surfaces for any serious wear.  If the roller’s surface has developed a wide groove where the pinch roll makes contact, it could potentially cause wrinkled copies.
   

     

10.  With the Drive Roll off, the Drive Back-Up Roll and its narrow metal shaft will drop off easily. Inspect and clean the single white Back-Up Roll and its tiny bearings.  (see Photo #12)
       
  
       
11.  Next remove the Upper Chute (4 screws, Photo #13)
   

    
12.  Now you have access to remove the Front Rocker-Arm Support Bracket. (1 screw, see Photo #14)
    

      

13.  Remove the Upper Decurler Foam Roll (named the Pene Roll in the OEM parts book). Pop off the front and rear e-clips and slide the bearings off.  Inspect the Rocker Arms which support the Foam Roll for damage.  You can leave the Rear Rocker-Arm, and its bracket, in place.
      
14.  Now you’ll be getting ready to remove the Lower Foam Roll… You already have the Lower Decurler Drive Roll off (refer back to steps # 4-8 in Part 1 of this pair of articles). So, now remove the Lower Chute (4 screws, see Photo #15). 
     

    

15.  Inspect the 12 mylar Feed-in Guides on the Lower Chute for signs of damage or burrs (see Photo #16). Repair or replace them if necessary.  Also clean up and inspect the three Drive Roll Back-Up Rolls.  Make sure the tiny bearings spin freely and remain seated firmly in the ends of the rolls.  Note that these 3 are identical to the single one in the upper half).
    

    
16.  Next, you’ll want to take the Lower Foam Roller off. Start by popping off the rear e-clip and bearing (there is a rectangular hole in the top of the rear frame which is helpful for reaching the e-clip with a tiny flat-head screwdriver).  Next go to the front end and remove the inner of the two Rocker-Arm support brackets (see Photo #17).  Note that removing the rear bracket is not necessary and it makes things more complicated, so leave it be.
     

     
17,  Inspect the Rear Cam Follower (see Photo #18 for an example of a broken one). This black plastic piece sometimes breaks, leading to a lack of pressure on the Upper Foam Roller.  If yours is broken, there is a metal replacement Cam Follower available (655N50090).  There is a tiny e-clip at the rear end, which needs to be removed to get the Cam Follower’s shaft off.  Refer to Photos #19 & 20 to see how the new Cam Follower and its spring should be positioned.

Well that should do the trick!  May your decurlers keep your copies nice and flat and beautiful.  Happy repairs everyone!

Author: Britt Horvat This is one of our own Partsdrop Write-ups. We hope you find it helpful!