WC-3655 Fuser Module Rebuild Instructions

Xerox^® WC-3655/3615 & B405/B400 - Fuser Modules… Repairing and rebuilding the Fusers for the WorkCentre^® 3655 / 3615, Phaser^® 3600, & VersaLink^® B405 / B400

            Here is a group of machines worth mentioning due to the sheer volume of machines sold out into the field.  It’s a great machine for being compact and relatively quick (especially the 55ppm 3655) and according to the word on the street, they’re reliable.  Only complaint from folks is that they are not good for printing on envelopes.  Already I digress!  Today we will concentrate on rebuilding the Fuser Modules as some really good aftermarket Heat Rolls and Pressure Sleeves are now available. 

            There are two versions in this series so far.  First came the 3655FA Fusers for the WC-3655/3615 and Phaser 3610.  These are usually sold in a Maintenance Kit along with the BTR Assembly (Transfer Roll):  115R00084 (115R84).  Valid part numbers for the fusers alone would be: 126K30919, 126K35550 or 126K35551.  The newest models to come out in the “3655 Style” are the VersaLink^® B405 and B400.  These have an extremely similar fuser.  The Heat Roll, Pressure Sleeve and most other parts interchange nicely, but the fuser itself is not interchangeable.  The B405 fuser also usually sells in a Maintenance Kit (115R00119), although again there are a few valid part numbers for the fuser alone: 126K36841, 859K00950 or 126K36840.
    

    

One thing which differentiates the two fusers is an indexing resistor on-board which has different ratings which the machine will recognize as being for the “correct” fuser.  The other obvious difference is that on the B405 / B400 fuser, they included a new feature.  They added two little gray sliding pieces (one near the top front and one near the top rear).  These are designed to change the pressure in the fuser to help it handle envelopes better.  This addresses the problems with envelope printing, but it is a rather impractical fix.  If the customer wants to run envelopes, they need to stop the machine… allow it to cool for a while, turn the machine around and open the back door to access the fuser.  They then slide the two little gray slide- pieces to the Envelope position.  When done with envelopes, they need to remember to return the slides to the regular paper position.

This type of fuser has a typical Heat Roller and a Pressure Sleeve which slips over a core with a fabric-like Slip Sheet inside, and a pair of oil wicks / pads.  They should have enough Slip Sheet Lube inside to make it turn with as little friction as possible.  Good lubricant in there may well turn out to be the most important key to getting good longevity out of your rebuilt fusers.

TOOLS NEEDED:

-          #2 Philips Head Screwdriver

-          T-10 Safety Torx Driver (or bit)

-          Needle-nosed Vice-Grip Pliers

PARTS YOU MAY NEED:

-          Fuser Heat Roller (3655FHR)

-          Fuser Pressure Sleeve (3655FPS)

-          Fuser Heat Roll Bushings (heat sleeves) (3655FHS) & Bearings (3655FHRB)

-          Pressure Sleeve Lubricant (PSL)

Let’s begin by getting oriented so we are all on the same page as to top vs. bottom, front vs. rear, and inner face vs. outer face.  (see Photo #1) 

REBUILD PROCEDURE:

1. We’ll start by securing the Picker Fingers which are mounted to the Exit Chute (top inner cover).  When the Exit Chute is off, the Picker fingers will fall off very easily.  Use some masking tape over each of them to keep them in place (see Photo #2)… The tape is also extremely helpful later when you’re reassembling, because when you go to install this Exit Chute you need to keep the fingers out away from the Heat Roller.  Holding all 4 fingers up at once is tricky without the help of the tape (see Photo #2).
         
   
         
2. With the Fingers secured, remove the Exit Chute
   (2 screws) (see Photo #3).
        
   
        
3. Extract the two Pressure Springs (needle-nosed vice grips work good for this).  These are fairly heavy springs, so make sure they don’t “get away from you” or they could go flying. (see Photo #4)
        
   
        
4. Remove the two Green Tension Release Levers.  Use a small Flat-Head Screwdriver’s blade to pry them gently away from the metal bracket they are seated into. (see Photo #5)
        
   
       
5. Next you will take off the “Outer Cover” (this is the cover with the temperature warning on it).  Start by removing 2 screws (see Photo #6) from the outer face (one near the front end and one near the rear end, tucked into alcoves near the gray locking knobs), Then open the Jam Clearance Gate all the way and pivot the Outer Cover upward and then shift the cover toward the gate to extract the two nubs which seat it in place (see Photo #7).  CAUTION… the Exit Gate is very fragile (yep, I broke one already), so remove it now to help protect it.
        
   
       
6. Hinge the Pressure Sleeve Assembly away, and it can slide up and off the two metal pivot brackets (see Photo #8).  Once it’s off, you will also want to remove the two metal pivot brackets from their pivot points.
        
   
        
7. Take apart the Pressure Sleeve assembly… look it over closely first because it will fall apart like a 3-D puzzle once the two hubs / ends come off and the old sleeve is slipped off.  (see Photo #9).
        
   
        
8. Inspect the Pressure Sleeve’s Slip-Sheet.  This piece must not be grossly distorted, nor torn.  Lubricate the Slip Sheet (both sides) with Slip-Sheet Lube, working the oil into the fabric-like surface to give it as much slip as possible.  Also, add some Slip-Sheet Lube to the two wicks (Wick 1 is mounted to the metal core and Wick 2 is on one of the two plastic core pieces) (See Photo #10).  These wicks serve as a reservoir for the Slip-Sheet Lube.
       
   
       
9. Remove the Contact / Clip from above the Indexing Resistor (at the front end of the fuser) (see Photo #11).  Release the larger bottom Contact / Clip where it hangs onto two plastic nubs, and the Indexing Resistor’s shuttle will slide out.  (see Photo #12 & 13)
       
   
        
10. Remove the metal Guide Bracket (2 screws, one at either end).  Be careful not to lose the metal contact piece after the rear end’s screw is out.  Once the bracket is off, the contact is only loosely mounted to it.
        
11. Remove the Heat Control / Electrical Cover.  This requires peeling off the little square sticker from the center of the cover which has the wrench symbol crossed off.  Then you will need to remove one screw (T10 Safety Torx) (see Photo #14).  Flex the cover to unseat it at the front end, and rear end.  Note that the little white Idler Gear at the rear end can fall off easily once this cover is removed. Better to take this gear off now, so it doesn’t disappear on you.
       
12. Release the Thermostat (Thermal Fuse) and pop the front Heat Lamp log off the Thermostat (See Photo #15).
       
13. Remove the Heat Roller: Pull the red Heat Lamp Terminal and its spade lug through the Lower Frame, at which point you can lift the front end of the Heat Roller out of the Lower Frame and slide it off, over the end of the Heat Lamp (see Photo #16).
        
    
        
14. On the Heat Roll you will find a pair of Bushings under a pair of Bearings.  Replace these pieces and add some high temperature grease as needed.
        
15. Reassemble everything.  Note that you will want to reinstall the two green Tension Levers before you put the Springs back on.

Nice work!  You just saved your customer a bit of green while keeping a perfectly good piece of equipment out of a landfill.

Resetting the Fuser Counter:

     

For WC-3615 / WC-3655:

1. Press the “Machine Status” button.

2. Touch the “Tools” tab.

3. Next touch “Admin Settings” followed by “Service Tools”.

4. Touch “Reset Transfer Unit / Fuser”, followed by “Reset”.

6. Finally press “Yes, Reset”.
     

For WC-3655 (for this model you need to first login as administrator:

1. Press “Login/Logout” and enter the username (default is ‘admin’) and then the password on the next screen (default is ‘1111’).

2. Press the “Machine Status” button.

3. Next touch the “Supplies” tab.

4. Then touch “Supply Counter Reset”, followed by “Reset CRU Life”.

6. Finally press “Reset Counter”.

For VersaLink B405 / B400:

1. Press the “Home” button.

2. Choose “Maintenance’ (gears icon).

3. Touch “Supplies”.

4. Touch “Maintenance Kit”.

5.  Press “Reset”, followed by “Confirm”, and then “Close out”.

Author: Britt Horvat, with special thanks to Kurt for his expertise and thanks also for support from whole Partsdrop gang. Originally published as an Article in the marvelous ENX Magazine - www.enxmag.com :)

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